Impression of: South East Asia
Driving through Chiang Mai, on our first day here, my eyes weren't attracted to the markets stalls, the dogs laying on the roads, the palm trees, the crazy vehicles, or any of the usual things. I was too busy staring at all of the foreigners. I hadn't seen so many white/black people in six months. Isn't it weird that in South East Asia, I've seen more foreigners then I've seen in half a year? I'm starting to understand why the Korean people generally stare at me. I was doing it for crying outloud!
Foreigners dress strangely and inappropriately (does NO ONE follow the legs OR chest rule anymore!?!?). Foreigners can also be shaped very oddly, due to the unhealthy, chemical-ridden food they eat (VERY few Asian people have thunder thighs, saddle bags, or muffin tops, if they are going to carry extra weight, it's usually right in the belly). And I'm one of the oddly-shaped, inappropriately dressed foreigners. Weird.
Impressions of: Vietnam
In Vietnam 98% of all adults and 10% of all children wear helmets on scooters (apparently the soft skulls of children are more resilient than adult skulls). Compared to Thailand and Cambodia, this is a 98/10% increase in helmut use. Unfortunately, the Vietnamese also follow another traffic law: they beep their horns when they pass another vehicle. Every. Single. Time.
And not just a little tap either. It's a continuous lean on the horn.
In this country, I'd say 90% of all motorists are on scooters, motercycles, or some cross in between. Can you imagine how often thousands of two-wheeled vehicles all going down the same road overtake one another? Now imagine that you're in a great, big, tourbus on this road, filled with wimpy motercycles. I was ready to go to the front of the bus, and rip off the steering wheel, to prevent the driver from honking ANY more.
Today we rented bicycles and it was the same thing. Everytime any motorized vehicle passed us, they blew their horns. SO ANNOYING.
One time in particular, I was re-entering the road from a convenience store on the shoulder. I carefully waited for a large break in traffic before going back on the road. Obviously I normally hug the side of the road as much as possible without actually leaving the pavement.
However, I was driving a huge, wobbly, banana-bike, and for the first few unsteady seconds, I accidentally drifted into the middle of the road.
BLAM BLAM BLAM!!!
Honks the tourbus behind me (and it's not like there was a danger of him hitting me, I didn't dart in front of him, he was FAR behind me).
As I gained momentum (and therefore control) I moved to the side of the road, with him BLAMMING at me the ENTIRE , oh I don't know, fifteen seconds it took me to get out of his way. Not content with a clear path, the driver slowed down and kept pace beside me for a good 50 metres, BLAMMING and yelling at me the entire time.
I didn't so much as blink in acknowledgement. But I really wanted him to come out and fight me.
Impressions of: Mui Ne
I'll write more about the beauty of this place later on (someone needs the computer at the moment).
Except last night, as I was cowering under mosquito netting, wondering if four-inch-long, grasshopper-like insects were dangerous, I had a bit of a moment of truth. The above-mentioned insect clinging to my curtains was causing me an unusual hesitation at the thought of turning off the lights and going to sleep.
Instead of being wimpy, I got the bug out myself (which involved squealing, throwing the curtains out the window, and slamming the window shut). Still, I'm taking care of business by myself more and more. It feels good.
Friday, February 20, 2009
February 17-19-Siam Reap-Phnom Penh-Mui Ne
Again with the 5am wake-up call! This time we had to catch a boat from Siam Reap to Phnom Penh. I spent most of Phnom Penh in hiding (from the blazing hot sun). On the 19th we took a bus into Vietnam (where the border crossing was delightfully easy and scam-free). Happily we settled into the resort town of Mui Ne.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
February 16: Where we last left off...
Our heroine had fallen into bed after 30-40km of biking in 35C.
So this morning we:
A: Slept in.
B: Got up at 5:00am.
Of course... 'B'.
Yesterday we purposely avoided the main attraction, Angkor Wat, so we could see it at sunrise.
It was beautiful (pics will come on facebook).
Lisa and I also went horseback riding today. We cantered, which was fun, although I really need to take horseback riding lessons and learn how to canter without destroying my ass in the process.
So this morning we:
A: Slept in.
B: Got up at 5:00am.
Of course... 'B'.
Yesterday we purposely avoided the main attraction, Angkor Wat, so we could see it at sunrise.
It was beautiful (pics will come on facebook).
Lisa and I also went horseback riding today. We cantered, which was fun, although I really need to take horseback riding lessons and learn how to canter without destroying my ass in the process.
February 15- Jennifer Becomes Fearless
Today we biked to Angkor.
Bicycling in Siam Reap is an extreme sport. There's no such thing as biking on shoulders or sidewalks. There's no such thing as a bike lane. As a cyclist in Siam Reap, you are a motorist surrounded by tuk tuks, cars, tourbuses, motorcycles, scooters, and slower cyclists/pedestrians pulling huge carts of goodness-knows-what. Throw in the fact that the streets are packed, and motorists driving small vehicles can't seem to pick one side of the road over the other, and you've got yourself a gong-show!
I just pretended like I was on a scooter (in my mind that gave me more of a right to be on the road). I even went through a round-about! All of these vehicles were whizzing all around me, and it honestly didn't phaze me. I was fearless (yet alert, except for one time when I lifted my head to see a motorcycle barreling towards me on the wrong side of the road. But I swerved and was okay).
From 9am-6pm we cycled all over Angkor, taking in Angkor Thom, Ta Phroem (sp?) (where "Tomb Raider" and "Indiana Jones:Temple of Doom" were filmed) and all sorts of other smaller lesser know wats (wats=temples).
While we had a fantastic day (Cambodia and I have resolved our differences) the HEAT!! Oh my goodness. You know that stupid question people sometimes ask? (When they're six I suppose): Would you rather be hot or cold?
Well people who can answer that question haven't been REALLY hot or cold. I mean, so hot or cold that you think, "I can see how people can die from this". Anyway, the answer is: neither. I'd rather be temperate (I was really afraid I was going to get a wicked sunburn, I was sweating so much that the sunscreen was just slideing off of my skin, but I was fine).
Thirty-forty kilometres later, we were zonked. After dinner we had massages from blind masseurs and fell into bed.
Bicycling in Siam Reap is an extreme sport. There's no such thing as biking on shoulders or sidewalks. There's no such thing as a bike lane. As a cyclist in Siam Reap, you are a motorist surrounded by tuk tuks, cars, tourbuses, motorcycles, scooters, and slower cyclists/pedestrians pulling huge carts of goodness-knows-what. Throw in the fact that the streets are packed, and motorists driving small vehicles can't seem to pick one side of the road over the other, and you've got yourself a gong-show!
I just pretended like I was on a scooter (in my mind that gave me more of a right to be on the road). I even went through a round-about! All of these vehicles were whizzing all around me, and it honestly didn't phaze me. I was fearless (yet alert, except for one time when I lifted my head to see a motorcycle barreling towards me on the wrong side of the road. But I swerved and was okay).
From 9am-6pm we cycled all over Angkor, taking in Angkor Thom, Ta Phroem (sp?) (where "Tomb Raider" and "Indiana Jones:Temple of Doom" were filmed) and all sorts of other smaller lesser know wats (wats=temples).
While we had a fantastic day (Cambodia and I have resolved our differences) the HEAT!! Oh my goodness. You know that stupid question people sometimes ask? (When they're six I suppose): Would you rather be hot or cold?
Well people who can answer that question haven't been REALLY hot or cold. I mean, so hot or cold that you think, "I can see how people can die from this". Anyway, the answer is: neither. I'd rather be temperate (I was really afraid I was going to get a wicked sunburn, I was sweating so much that the sunscreen was just slideing off of my skin, but I was fine).
Thirty-forty kilometres later, we were zonked. After dinner we had massages from blind masseurs and fell into bed.
February 14- Things get better...
Not like they could have gotten worse! Today we were smart and gave ourselves a break. We mosy-ed, stayed inside out of the heat, ate three square meals, hit a market, and showered frequently (yesterday when I got here, I flung myself into my bed...which turned my white sheets into the most disgusting orangy-brown colour).
Yesterday's entry related some scams I've been subjected to. I didn't really talk about the country. It's exactly how you would picture a post-war country.
Cambodia has the most landmines of any country in the world (don't worry, I'm not straying off the beaten path). As soon as you cross the border, the landscape becomes bleak. Especially after living in hilly South Korea/Northern Thailand, the prairie-like flatness is hard on the eyes.
The ground is red dust and the sky is grey.
During the three-hour taxi-ride from the border to Siam Reap, conditions were appalling. The road is only paved up to a certain point, then you must jounce along crater filled dirt roads, that frequently detour into even worse rutted pathways.
At one point we were driving like a stunt car in a movie, with two wheels up on a mound of dirt and the other two on the road.
Siam Reap is dirty and crowded. While I am no longer wishing to cut my vacation short, Cambodia has been a sobering country.
Yesterday's entry related some scams I've been subjected to. I didn't really talk about the country. It's exactly how you would picture a post-war country.
Cambodia has the most landmines of any country in the world (don't worry, I'm not straying off the beaten path). As soon as you cross the border, the landscape becomes bleak. Especially after living in hilly South Korea/Northern Thailand, the prairie-like flatness is hard on the eyes.
The ground is red dust and the sky is grey.
During the three-hour taxi-ride from the border to Siam Reap, conditions were appalling. The road is only paved up to a certain point, then you must jounce along crater filled dirt roads, that frequently detour into even worse rutted pathways.
At one point we were driving like a stunt car in a movie, with two wheels up on a mound of dirt and the other two on the road.
Siam Reap is dirty and crowded. While I am no longer wishing to cut my vacation short, Cambodia has been a sobering country.
February (Friday the 13th lived up to expectations) OR Bangkok-Siam Reap
I am writing this entry from the relative space and comfort of February the 14th. Had I written this entry yesterday, it would be rated 'R'for use of excessive foul language.
February 13th dawned insanely hot. We ate a quick breakfast and began our major challenge of this trip: traveling from Bangkok, Thailand to Siam Reap, Cambodia.
I don't consider myself a seasoned veteren of international travel, but I'm not green either. Cambodia will be the 12th country I've visited in the last two years, and I'm not counting lay-overs and drive-thrus. However, the Thai-Cambodia border was the first border I've crossed on land (except for EU borders, which they don't check).
It is a DOOZY of a border.
Every sweaty step of the way is a scam to squeeze more money out of tourists. The biggest scam is travel agencies selling tickets directly from Bangkok to Siam Reap. These tickets are invalid. The bus will take you as far as the border, and dump you.
Our Ko Samet friend, Peter, had bought one such ticket years ago. Consequentially, he spent nine hours in the flatbed of a pickup truck with fourteen other people in the middle of a thunderstorm.
Fortunately, we were aware of this scam, so we:
9am :) Insisted on taking a metered taxi to the bus station, which was half as expensive as the tuk-tuks being pushed on us.
9:30am :) Bussed from Bangkok to the A.P. bus station
2:30pm :) took a tuk tuk from A.P. bus station to the border (at a reasonable price)
2:45 :( were taken by tuk tuk to a small visa office before being taken to the border. We bought our visas there because we had no idea what was going on. We would have saved 6CDN each had we bought our visas at the border.
:) Did NOT fall for other scams at said visa office, including a too-cheap taxi-ride to Siam Reap
3:00pm :1 (neutral) left Thailand, walked 200m across border, entered Cambodia
3:40 :) took a free bus from border to bus station
4:00pm :( were pressured into exchanging our baht into riel at a poor exchange rate
4:10 :) found a taxi to take us to Siam Reap
7:30 pm :( were dropped off at a tuk tuk stand just outside the city. Not knowing what else to do, we paid the tuk tuk driver a slightly elevated price to take us to our guesthouse.
:) AVOIDED the scam of taking the ride for free, thus being beholden to give the driver a job the following day.
:) AVOIDED allowing the driver to take us to HIS prefered guesthouse, where he would have received a commission for delivering us.
----------------------------------------
Does this sound as tiring as it was?
It's EXHAUSTING. You always have to be on your guard, fending off scams left, right, and centre. And they know just how to hustle hot and tired tourists who have been traveling all day.
Although...on the flip side, although their tactics are annoying and inconvenient; who's going to cry buckets of tears over poor local people getting a few extra dollars out of relatively rich foreigners? Didn't they write a book about that? Robin Hood?
On the other flipside, from the time we left our hotel in the morning, to the time we got to our hotel at night, we spent twelve hours on the road. During this time period, we ran from bus to tuk tuk, never taking a break in the 40C heat. We didn't even eat, we didn't have time.
When we got to our guesthouse in Siam Reap, I couldn't remember why on earth I had wanted to go to Cambodia in the first place. I was HOT in a way I can't adequately explain, so tired, and SO hungry. I was dizzy, nauseous, covered in sweat, and (Lord forgive me) wishing for a plane ticket back to South Korea to fall out of the sky. I went to bed in a MISERABLE mood.
February 13th dawned insanely hot. We ate a quick breakfast and began our major challenge of this trip: traveling from Bangkok, Thailand to Siam Reap, Cambodia.
I don't consider myself a seasoned veteren of international travel, but I'm not green either. Cambodia will be the 12th country I've visited in the last two years, and I'm not counting lay-overs and drive-thrus. However, the Thai-Cambodia border was the first border I've crossed on land (except for EU borders, which they don't check).
It is a DOOZY of a border.
Every sweaty step of the way is a scam to squeeze more money out of tourists. The biggest scam is travel agencies selling tickets directly from Bangkok to Siam Reap. These tickets are invalid. The bus will take you as far as the border, and dump you.
Our Ko Samet friend, Peter, had bought one such ticket years ago. Consequentially, he spent nine hours in the flatbed of a pickup truck with fourteen other people in the middle of a thunderstorm.
Fortunately, we were aware of this scam, so we:
9am :) Insisted on taking a metered taxi to the bus station, which was half as expensive as the tuk-tuks being pushed on us.
9:30am :) Bussed from Bangkok to the A.P. bus station
2:30pm :) took a tuk tuk from A.P. bus station to the border (at a reasonable price)
2:45 :( were taken by tuk tuk to a small visa office before being taken to the border. We bought our visas there because we had no idea what was going on. We would have saved 6CDN each had we bought our visas at the border.
:) Did NOT fall for other scams at said visa office, including a too-cheap taxi-ride to Siam Reap
3:00pm :1 (neutral) left Thailand, walked 200m across border, entered Cambodia
3:40 :) took a free bus from border to bus station
4:00pm :( were pressured into exchanging our baht into riel at a poor exchange rate
4:10 :) found a taxi to take us to Siam Reap
7:30 pm :( were dropped off at a tuk tuk stand just outside the city. Not knowing what else to do, we paid the tuk tuk driver a slightly elevated price to take us to our guesthouse.
:) AVOIDED the scam of taking the ride for free, thus being beholden to give the driver a job the following day.
:) AVOIDED allowing the driver to take us to HIS prefered guesthouse, where he would have received a commission for delivering us.
----------------------------------------
Does this sound as tiring as it was?
It's EXHAUSTING. You always have to be on your guard, fending off scams left, right, and centre. And they know just how to hustle hot and tired tourists who have been traveling all day.
Although...on the flip side, although their tactics are annoying and inconvenient; who's going to cry buckets of tears over poor local people getting a few extra dollars out of relatively rich foreigners? Didn't they write a book about that? Robin Hood?
On the other flipside, from the time we left our hotel in the morning, to the time we got to our hotel at night, we spent twelve hours on the road. During this time period, we ran from bus to tuk tuk, never taking a break in the 40C heat. We didn't even eat, we didn't have time.
When we got to our guesthouse in Siam Reap, I couldn't remember why on earth I had wanted to go to Cambodia in the first place. I was HOT in a way I can't adequately explain, so tired, and SO hungry. I was dizzy, nauseous, covered in sweat, and (Lord forgive me) wishing for a plane ticket back to South Korea to fall out of the sky. I went to bed in a MISERABLE mood.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
February 10-12 Ko Samet-Bangkok
Tuesday the 10th we spent one more blissful day on Ko Samet. Suze, Peter, Veronica and I took an exhilerating ride on a banana boat, but other then that it was a lazy day.
Wednesday, we got up early and returned to Bangkok. Ali, Suze, and I had to part from Peter and Veronia, which was a bit sad...BUT we did get to reunite with Amanda and Lisa! It feels good for the five of us to be together again.
Amanda and Lisa had met a girl from Holland on their travels. We were briefly introduced, but then she had to go meet her friend. Amanda asked if it was okay if she stayed in a room with Amanda and I. Of course I agreed. Later that night I went to my room. The girl I had only glimpsed briefly (and hadn't talked to at all) was already asleep in bed...wearing only a tank top and see-through black panties. Very backpacker!
Today is Thursday the twelfth. I have not been feeling well for the past few days. While the other four went sight-seeing in Bangkok, I went to a hospital. It turns out I have an inconsequential viral infection. I still elected to take it easy today. My friends are currently at a lady-boy caberet, and I'm stuck in an internet cafe :'(. Oh well, it will be worth it to feel better!
When I was in the hospital, an elderly Indian lady and I were both washing our hands in the bathroom. She caught a glance of me in the mirror, gasped, and said (in English better than mine) "OH!! I am surprised to see YOU!". She very sweetly peppered me with questions, while I tried to edge out of the bathroom in a polite manner.
Her-"What nationality are you?"
Me-"Canadian"
Her-"How old are you?"
Me-"23"
Her-*nodding wisely* "Yes, yes, that's what I thought. How lovely to be so young and able to travel the world. The world is quite small these days. You must find it very hot here."
Me-"Yes, it's quite hot"
Her-"And this is nothing, you know. Even for those of us born in the tropics, April, May, they can be quite difficult".
Eventually I exited the bathroom. As it was 35C today, I am NEVER coming to SouthEast Asia in the hot season!
Wednesday, we got up early and returned to Bangkok. Ali, Suze, and I had to part from Peter and Veronia, which was a bit sad...BUT we did get to reunite with Amanda and Lisa! It feels good for the five of us to be together again.
Amanda and Lisa had met a girl from Holland on their travels. We were briefly introduced, but then she had to go meet her friend. Amanda asked if it was okay if she stayed in a room with Amanda and I. Of course I agreed. Later that night I went to my room. The girl I had only glimpsed briefly (and hadn't talked to at all) was already asleep in bed...wearing only a tank top and see-through black panties. Very backpacker!
Today is Thursday the twelfth. I have not been feeling well for the past few days. While the other four went sight-seeing in Bangkok, I went to a hospital. It turns out I have an inconsequential viral infection. I still elected to take it easy today. My friends are currently at a lady-boy caberet, and I'm stuck in an internet cafe :'(. Oh well, it will be worth it to feel better!
When I was in the hospital, an elderly Indian lady and I were both washing our hands in the bathroom. She caught a glance of me in the mirror, gasped, and said (in English better than mine) "OH!! I am surprised to see YOU!". She very sweetly peppered me with questions, while I tried to edge out of the bathroom in a polite manner.
Her-"What nationality are you?"
Me-"Canadian"
Her-"How old are you?"
Me-"23"
Her-*nodding wisely* "Yes, yes, that's what I thought. How lovely to be so young and able to travel the world. The world is quite small these days. You must find it very hot here."
Me-"Yes, it's quite hot"
Her-"And this is nothing, you know. Even for those of us born in the tropics, April, May, they can be quite difficult".
Eventually I exited the bathroom. As it was 35C today, I am NEVER coming to SouthEast Asia in the hot season!
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